Greetings, Wonketeers! I’m Hooper, your bartender. I really do hate winter, but there are a few bright spots. Oranges are back in season, a welcome treat in the dark and cold. Here’s a warming Wisconsin-style cocktail that’s a fun winter take on a summer ingredient. Time for an Aperol Creme. Here’s the recipe:
Aperol Creme
1 thick (½”) slice Cara Cara orange
1 oz Aperol
1 oz creme de cacao
1 oz Stirrings triple sec
1 oz heavy cream
2 shakes orange bitters
Gently muddle the orange slice in your cocktail shaker, being careful not to crush the pith. Add remaining ingredients. Shake well, 30-45 seconds. Strain into a coupe glass and garnish with an orange twist.
The inspiration for this cocktail begins with The Educated Barfly’s “Harry’s Midnight Snack,” a fun insider’s drink that I loved. But it’s a Fernet cocktail, and Fernet is a sale I’ve yet to close with non-bartenders. Bitter minty Fernet, orange, and sweet cream are all flavors that sound great together on paper. In practice, the drink can remind you of drinking a glass of orange juice after brushing your teeth. Not ideal.
The core notion of taking a bitter amaro and balancing it with cream had my attention, though. I think of amaros as summertime treats; the Americano, a cocktail with seltzer, vermouth, and Campari, is a clear example. Giving the amaro space to expand and show off all its flavors with dairy and neutral creme de cacao seemed like a great idea. It reminded me of the creamy Grasshoppers and Pink Squirrels they make in Wisconsin, only with more depth and less sugar.
Aperol is the classic orange amaro, a kissing cousin of Campari with less bitterness and stronger orange flavors. I’ve poured dozens of Aperol spritzes in the dog days of summer. A little Aperol, some champagne, and a splash of soda water to make the champagne build a big head of foam before service — what’s not to love? Aperol with fresh cream and orange juice sounded like an absolute banger.
As it turns out, I was fine-tuning this drink right up to my deadline. The bitterness of the Aperol tends to hit at the very back of the cocktail, a dry tannic red-wine sort of bitter that lingers and builds if you aren’t careful. I wanted to keep some bitter and herbal in the drink. An early version with Grand Marnier instead of Aperol was a pleasant but boring Creamsicle. I ended up splitting the difference and cutting the Aperol with some good herbal triple sec. The end result is still bittersweet and complex, but doesn’t become a chore to finish. Not a bad way to pass a cold winter evening.
Let’s talk ingredients:
Cara Cara Orange: Use a navel orange if you must, but Cara Caras are so pretty, and they’re in season right now. Cara Cara oranges aren’t quite as acidic as a navel orange, and add a little more rose color to the drink than a plain-jane orange would provide.
Aperol: It’s a bit extravagant, but there really is no substitute. I’ve tried some budget-priced knockoffs; the color and flavor just aren’t there. Look forward to some great Aperol spritzes in the summer if you need to justify the cost.
Creme de cacao: Paramount is my absolute last choice of brand when it comes to alcohol, but it’s hard to find speciality liqueurs from anyone else in most liquor stores. Tempus Fugit makes a better one. This bottle is slightly earthy and very sweet; it hardly registers as “chocolate.” Adding it to a cream cocktail makes the cream thicker, sweeter, and not quite as heavy. Often a good option for a cream drink.
Triple Sec: Don’t skimp. Cheap triple sec tastes like orange soda, and will turn this drink into a melted popsicle. Cointreau is the best choice but you’ll pay for what you get. I prefer Stirrings triple sec; it’s more affordable and hits the bergamot and herbal notes I want from triple sec.
Heavy cream: To make this a true Wisconsin cocktail, add a little scoop of vanilla or orange ice cream to the glass before service. A bit decadent for me, but hard to argue with.
Orange bitters: I use these bitters all the time to balance and unify the flavors in a citrus cocktail. They’ll help to cover up some sins if your triple sec isn’t up to snuff.
In summary and conclusion, drink well, drink often, and tip your bartender — donate to Wonkette at the link below!
We aren’t linking to Amazon anymore, because fuck Bezos. Go read Amaro by Britt Parsons instead. This James Beard award-winning book walks you through the world of amaros and other bittersweet liqueurs. There’s a whole category of booze worth playing with that America barely touches. Now’s the time.
You can find me on Bluesky at @samuraigrog!
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